the history
situation
La Devesa Park is situated
to the northwest of Girona city. It extends from the River Onyar until
it meets the River Güell in an east-west direction, and from the River
Ter up to Passeig de La Devesa (former N-II main road) in a north-to-south
direction.
The park occupies an area
of 40 hectares, of which some three-quarters are taken up by plane trees
arranged forming broad avenues; in the rest, there are buildings and zones
laid to garden.
the name
An ordinary noun has been
used as the name for the park. The word "devesa" means an extension of
land covered with natural vegetation, used for grazing and obtaining firewood.
At the outside, these were indeed some of the uses to which La Devesa was
put. It was only later than it came to be used as a promenade.
The first mention of La
Devesa in documents dates back to 1767. Alongside that name it has also
been called "paseo arbolado" (tree-lined promenade) and "alameda" (same
meaning). Much earlier this land had been called "aigualeixos" (fluvial
deposit). And when La Devesa was already in use as a promenade, it was
also known simply as "el passeig" (the promenade).
origin and evolution
Situated at the confluence
of the rivers Ter, Onyar and Güell, La Devesa was originally a zone
of sandy soils formed by sedimentation of the materials carried by these
rivers. The area was often flooded by their waters, and particularly those
of the Ter, which at high-water times also occupied the city itself.
La Devesa and the other
land on the banks of the Ter as it passes through Girona was donated to
the city in three phases. In 1423, Queen María Victoria ceded part;
the following year her husband, King Alfons the Magnanimous, made a second
donation, and finally in 1510 King Ferran the Catholic finally transferred
all that land that still belonged to the royal family.
The idea was to allow the
city to use the land as a defence against the high waters of the river
and as a source of income to offset the losses caused by the floods. The
vegetation that grew there spontaneously could act as a natural barrier
against the floods. But to get some benefit from it, various schemes were
implemented.
The main economic activity
was tree plantation, normally Lombardy poplars and white poplars, which
would later be felled to obtain money by selling the wood. The first felling
for making military defences came in 1794. Whether for the first or second
reason, during the 18th century and beginning of the 19th century, plantation
and felling were very frequent.
By the 18th century, however,
there was a reference to La Devesa as a promenade. This recreational use
was shared with the other strictly economic uses.
La Devesa was also occupied
by vegetable gardens. The fact that they were often destroyed by floods
led in 1837 to that activity being replaced by grazing, which lasted down
to 1865. From that time onwards La Devesa may be said to have been oriented
finally towards use as a promenade.
In 1859 the municipal architect
Martí Sureda i Deulovol, at the initiative of the mayor Marià
Hernández, designed the current layout of the park, and the first
plane trees were planted. La Devesa then had its present structure and
dimensions.
This gives the lie to the
popular belief that La Devesa in its present form was the work of the French.
La Devesa was left in a very poor state following the Napoleonic sieges,
and over the years when they occupied the city (1810-1814) they replanted
it and saw that it was taken care of. To them is attributed the start on
planting of trees based on town planning principles using updated cartography,
but not that La Devesa as reconstructed by them formed the basis of the
present park, nor that they were the first to use it as a promenade.
The high point of its beauty
and social use came in the first third of this century. It became a place
for children and the young and old to gather, stroll and enjoy leisure
time. Festive events, parades and military march-pasts, athletic completions
and so forth were held in the park. These were years in which La Devesa
played a full part in the life of the city.
But there then started also
cessions for all kinds of uses of the park, division into plots for private
use and construction of buildings. The parkland became an immediately available
resource to meet the city’s land and facilities needs. And all this led
to a change in its appearance.
Around 1940 people still
took walks there often, but by a few years later it was clear that the
citizens had distanced themselves from it. That distancing has been linked
with many causes, most attributed to the fact that La Devesa was some way
away from the city.
The features that separated
Girona from La Devesa are obvious enough: there were the natural barriers
such as the River Güell, and artificial ones too, such as the railway
line and the road.
For nearly a century, to
get to it one had to pass through a hole made in the railway embankment,
and by crossing a bridge over the River Güell, before one finally
arrived at the entrance to the park. The railway line was taken up in 1973,
while a few years before that the Güell had been diverted into its
present course. Some obstacles disappeared, but others – such as the N-II
main road – were built.
It remains true, however,
that there had also been barriers back in the times when it was much used
by people. The reasons must thus be sought elsewhere. In the 1960s abandonment
of the park was related with the boom in private-car use, which began to
transform Girona social life and change people’s habits. It was a period
when La Devesa was abandoned and people no longer went there. The City
Hall took no care of it and the trees were diseased.
The mid-1960s saw the beginnings
of a social movement in favour of La Devesa. A first study of the tree-health
problems was drawn up in 1975 by Narcís Motjé, commissioned
by the city’s professional associations. In 1976 came a "Save La Devesa"
campaign organised by the Assemblea Democràtica d’Artistes de Girona
with sponsorship from the province’s professional associations.
It was with the first local
government councils of the democratic period that there arose a firm will
to recover La Devesa, both in terms of tree health and social use and adaptation
to citizen needs.
Nowadays, in spite of the
main road, the spread of the city has banished the former feeling that
the park lies well away from the city and has led to its being made part
of the city.
The trees are cared for
with painstaking monitoring and control, and various activities are fostered,
such as the Trade Fairs and Festivals of Sant Narcís, the Spring
Festivals, exhibitions at Girona Trade Fair Centre, the weekly markets
and the night bars (called "carpes") in the summertime. Some facilities
have also been recovered and refurbished, such as the municipal sports
zone or the hut at the entrance to the gardens, the Environmental Education
and City Education Resource Centre which promotes the drawing up of routes
such as this one and provides all kinds of information about La Devesa.
The gardens of La Devesa also house the Environment Institute.
This work means that the
park has been adapted once more to present-day conditions and customs and
has become a leading feature in the life of the city.
the historical gardens of la devesa
Their origins go back to
the beginning of the 19th century, when gardens were fashionable walkways
for the well-off. The military governor of Girona, imitating what had been
done in other places, had one laid in La Devesa, but the frequent floods
made it very difficult to maintain the garden.
The gardens in the present
park were laid in two parts. The one more to the east was laid at the beginning
of the 19th century, and the west one rather later. At the beginning of
the 20th century, the two gardens were made into one by means of an avenue
of plane trees we can see immediately we enter and which runs between the
park’s two entrances. The appearance of these plane trees is quite different
from those we see outside, for they are not as tall and their branches
have been pruned back to make them grow horizontally and provide good shade
in the summer. It is a garden in the French style, that is, laid out in
beds borned by hedges forming geometrical figures and with headpieces of
trees and shrubs cut back to various shapes.
As we stroll around it we
can observe and get to know the wide variety of plants in the garden, look
at the sculptures and enjoy this welcoming and peaceful area of leisure
and play for the young and the old, as well as one that lends itself to
social relations and a peaceful chat.
We have mentioned the considerable
variety of plants. Some are authochthonous, that is, native to the country,
while others – most in fact – are exotic plants originating from other
countries. Of the latter, some have adapted so well to our territory that
they are now to be found as a matter of course in our countryside, and
so are called naturalised species, such as the robinia (Robinia pseudoacacia).
There are others, on the other hand, which can only survive with special
care, such as the privet (Ligustrum japonicum) or cycas (Cycus
revoluta).
Among the curious features
of these gardens we should mention the fountain of the peacock cage.
What is delightful about
the fountain is the vegetation which grows there and which varies according
to the season of the year, changing its appearance considerably. We might
notice that there is hardly any soil, and so only plants which need a lot
of moisture and little soil can take root there. Here we can find mosses,
umbrella plants (Cyperus alternifolius), maidenhair ferns (Adiantum
capillus veneris), etc.
The peacocks’ house, at
the end of the west sector of the gardens, attracts the attention due to
these birds’ elegant, eye-catching tail-feathers.
Texts from: La Devesa.
Girona City Hall. Collection "Girona, itinerari n. 5". 1995.
Text of 1st edition:
Sílvia Teixidor. Updated text: Berta Terrades.